Although basic leather production methods have evolved little over the years, designers continue to find new ways to innovate with this versatile natural material. In this blog, Joachim Henkmann, Global Marketing Manager for Leather at Stahl, explains how the right topcoat can elevate luxury leather goods in line with consumer demand for ‘quiet luxury’ products.
Over the past few years, a new trend has been quietly emerging in the world of luxury fashion. Gone are the days of ostentatious logos and flashy embellishments. Instead, fashionistas and trendsetters are now gravitating towards a more understated and minimalist aesthetic, known as ‘quiet luxury’ or ‘stealth wealth.’ It refers to a pared-back style composed of elevated basics – prioritising pieces that don’t need to shout to make a statement. This trend has had a significant impact, particularly on the Autumn/Winter ‘23 catwalks, putting the focus squarely on product quality. For leather goods manufacturers, this shift underlines the importance of achieving a flawless finish, and that’s where a great leather topcoat comes in.
Topcoats have always offered more than just functional benefits. A carefully selected topcoat can elevate the quality and feel of leather goods, taking them from attractive to irresistible. From the warm, sensual allure of a matte finish to the sleek sophistication of a sheer gloss, the design possibilities are endless. In short, a well-chosen topcoat has the power to forge a lasting connection with consumers. And with the luxury leather goods market currently valued at USD 76 billion – and expected to reach USD 92 billion by 2028 – making that connection has never been more important. So, how do leather manufacturers achieve this?
At Stahl’s Centre of Excellence for shoes and leather goods in Castelfranco di Sotto, Italy, we understand the transformative potential of topcoats. It all begins with giving leather the ideal texture. The primary purpose of applying a topcoat is to smooth out the natural roughness of the leather’s surface. If you were to examine a cross-section of dull leather under a microscope, you’d observe what looks like a jagged mountain range. This rough surface scatters light in different directions, resulting in a ‘dull’ appearance. However, when leather is smoothed and a topcoat is applied, the cross-section becomes flatter, with smoother ‘peaks’. This reduces light scattering to create a more uniform appearance. But this effect can be short-lived, meaning products may lose their lustre over time. So, what’s the solution?
The longevity of a premium finish on a leather product depends on one crucial factor: fastness. Fastness measures how well the topcoat adheres to the leather substrate and its resistance to physical abrasion and chemical exposure. Achieving a premium look and high fastness without overwhelming the leather’s surface is a delicate balancing act. But thanks to the aqueous blend of polymers and auxiliaries in Stahl’s Aqualen® Top NG water-based topcoats – and their self-crosslinking technology – manufacturers can meet these stringent requirements.
However, as any leather goods manufacturer knows, looks are only part of the story. It’s also important to give your products a pleasing haptic profile. Some topcoats give the leather a plasticky feel, the very opposite of a luxury experience. Aqualen® Top NG topcoats, on the other hand, are specifically designed to provide a superior, natural feel. They also deliver impressive dry, wet and alkaline rub fastness, making your products more resistant to everyday wear and tear. This gives bags, shoes, garments and accessories a premium look and feel that lasts for longer, so they’ll be cherished for years to come.
Whether it’s a muted satchel or a glossy tote, there’s no hard and fast rule about what finish makes a piece ‘quiet luxury’. And of course, each designer will have a unique approach to the trend when it comes to creating leather accessories. That’s why the Aqualen® Top NG range offers four stunning finish options, ranging from full matte to high gloss – giving designers the creative freedom they need to make a lasting impression. Whichever finish you choose, Aqualen® Top NG will make your leather goods stand out, even without a prominent logo.
Achieving a superior look and feel should never come at the expense of consumer or worker safety. The Aqualen® Top NG range also offers many functional advantages from a manufacturing and safety perspective. Formulated with our new generation of polymer technology and selected auxiliaries, these water-based topcoats are easy to apply, enable uniform dry milling behaviour and respond well to plate release. The range is compatible with most existing water-based auxiliaries for finishing. What’s more, Aqualen® Top NG products are NC- and CAB-free, ZDHC MRSL-compliant and have an extremely low solvent content.
In a fashion landscape where understatement and craftsmanship increasingly reign supreme, choosing the right finish for your leather goods is paramount. After all, ‘quiet luxury’ is all about the subtle elegance of well-made, minimalist investment pieces. With Aqualen® Top NG, the topcoat becomes so much more than an extra layer; it can make the difference between a leather product that’s forgettable and one that’s unmissable. So, as logos take a back seat in the world of luxury leather goods, it’s time to put the focus back on the details.
For more information about Stahl’s Aqualen® Top NG range – and how it can help your leather goods shine in the era of ‘quiet luxury’ – please get in touch via the contact form below.